Pigroast uncertainty What are your thoughts? Started by Mooseherder on Forestry and Logging. Started by Oliver on Forestry and Logging. Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register. Send this topic Print. Author Topic: Is there any glue that can be used to secure a axe handle? Read times. I am making a new handle for an old broad axe. The hole in the axe head is conical only one way which means that no wedge can be used.
In the old days they smeared the end of the handle with pine tar and dipped it in ash before they banged it into the hole for good. This was not very secure so I wonder if there is any better way to do it.
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since I can see that I have to explain it further. They made them with a hole that is conical towards the handle only. In the end where the wedge would normally be is only a small hole.
Handcrafted Ash Axe Handles
Finnish broadaxes are often that way. I have another one with an old handle that got loose and it was simply pyramid-shaped.
I have asked the old men in the village about how to do and one of them teached the tar and ash trick.
Another said that it was a problem in the old days too. There is no difference between right and left on the heads of the broad axes here. They have bewels on both sides. I checked the translation on internet "bila" should be translated broad-axe.
The best I could think of would be a two part epoxy glue perhaps, or even maybe mix up some fiberglass. I have no idea how well it would hold up, but probably better than tar and ash. Somewhere around here I've got a old grubbing hoe that has a curved metal wedge drove in from the handle side.Posted in Uncategorized. The axe is one of those tools that looks better with use. The more you use and maintain an axe, the better it looks.
Handle treatments not only help preserve and protect your handle but also will enhance its appearance over years and years of hard use. All Hults Bruk axes are all made from premium American hickory selected for superior grain orientation and run out. The handles for both premium and standard line of Hults Bruk axes come from the factory with a coat of boiled linseed oil BLO. BLO is an effective and traditional drying oil that seals the grain, helps repel moisture, improves the grip and preserves the look of the wood.
Hults Bruk uses handles made with heartwood, sapwood, or a mix of the two. Heartwood handles are darker, and if you get one, be grateful as they are beautiful. Contrary to what old-timers might tell you, there is no difference in the inherent strength or durability of heartwood or sapwood handles. Or vice versa, they are both strong enough for use options and heartwood can be a gorgeous option. Boiled Linseed Oil is a great way to quickly bring a Hults Bruk back to its factory look. BLO is widely available and can be found at hardware or woodworking stores.
Most BLO today has additives and drying agents, which are not that good for you, so wear gloves when applying. Simply wipe the BLO on the handle, let the oil soak in a while, then wipe off the excess with a clean rag. If you apply the oil hot, it will penetrate the wood better. Some people might dilute the oil with turpentine or combined with oth er types of oil as a special recipe, these all work well in their own way. Another oil that works great is tung oil. In my experience linseed oil tends to age and darken a little more than tung oil.
And tung oil tends to maintain a more neutral color longer. Apply tung oil the same way as linseed oil. Wearing a glove, wipe the tung oil on the handle, let it soak in, then wipe off the excess with a clean rag and allow the handle to dry.
There are several DIY recipes for handle wax online, or you can purchase some really nic e ones. Wax is the easiest finish for a handle by far.
Premium Axe Handle Blanks
Sometimes the patterns and textures of the wood grain are the cutting marks left by the lathe. These offer some interesting opportunities. For example, this handle has a great tiger stripe look to it. We could sand it all down and get rid of those textures, or we can enhance it.
Danish oil is a hard drying oil that comes is a variety of hues. This even works on top of the factory oil finish. But the drying time is quite a bit longer since little of the oil is going to soak in. Apply liberally. To remove excess, place the handle in a vice horizontally. The excess oil will pool along the bottom and you can wipe it off along the spine.The axe on the left is the author's and has had 10 years of solid use. The difference is down to care and maintenance.
Photo: Paul Kirtley. In an environment where an axe is important it is often as valuable as, if not more valuable than, a knife. For example, in the northern, or boreal, forest where trees grow slowly and the wood is dense and knotty, an axe is extremely valuable and your most important tool. In any woodland where you were working on larger woodcraft projects that require bigger sections of wood, being able to fell and process both live and dead standing trees is something for which you need an axe.
Larger woodcraft projects such as making camp furniture often require the use of an axe. A good axe of a traditional design has several components made of materials which require some maintenance. If you look after your axe, it will give you many years of service. A good quality traditional-style axe will likely have a wooden handle, or 'helve' as it is sometimes known. As with any wood that is kept or used outdoors, it needs to have some protection from the elements, most notably water.
When you buy a new axe it comes with a protective finish on the handle. This finish is often made from linseed oil and beeswax. A good axe will have a head made from high quality steel. The head will be tempered so that the bit of the axe is tough, not easily chipped and able to attain a very sharp yet resilient edge. This quality piece of steel will also need some protection and care to keep it in prime condition.
The third component that we need to give some consideration is the mask.Axe handle with pallet wood
This is what some people might call the sheath but is more appropriately called a mask. A mask on a traditional-style axe typically will be made of leather.
As with any leather item, it will need protecting from the environment to keep the leather in good condition. Keeping your axe in prime working condition does, of course, include keeping it sharp.
I'm not, however, going to cover axe sharpening in this article. What we're concerned with here is how to keep your axe in good condition and protected from the environment. The axe head of a good quality axe such as those made by Gransfors Bruks is typically made of steel that is not stainless. That is, it will quite easily rust if allowed to remain damp for a period of time.
I've bought my share of hickory handles from hardware stores and have no issues with them. I use ash for lathe tool handles and have used it for file handles as well. Recently I made a hatchet handle out of osage orange hedge. Historically, osage was used for bows in the southern US, and I've heard legends that an osage bow was worth a horse and a blanket that's just hearsay, don't quote me on it.
It seems to be holding up well, as I would expect from a dense, springy wood. Also, I expect the hatchet head to rust out before the handle rots due to osage's extreme longevity. One website states that hickory and ash are really the only US domestic woods worth using. I've thought about trying black locust, also due to its rot resistance and toughness, but this is not readily available in the Chicagoland area.
Another forum thread discusses suitable woods in terms of vibration transference. This website also seems to suggest using whatever is available locally and not worrying too much. So, what other woods are suitable for tool handles based on your experience? Sometimes, you just get better results making your own handles than buying them at the store, so knowing which species work and which species last under use, abuse, and time would be very helpful.
Note that I am more concerned with "long" tool handles, not so much short ones like one would see on a plane or a screwdriver. Obviously just one man's opinion and a gross over-simplification. It's also inherently misleading because it's light on detail. In reality while hickory is broadly speaking worthy of its reputation as a premier handle wood it obscures certain facts. The first is if you're buying an axe or sledge handle it should be pale in colour because it should be sapwood only.
It is hickory sapwood that usually makes great handle stock, an important detail that people tend to forget to mention all too frequently. Any reddish wood in a handle is the heartwood.
Make a Pick Handle From Scrap Hardwood
Now hickory heartwood is fine wood, but not ideal for handles of this type. It would be perfectly well suited to chisel handles, plane totes and knobs, but then so are many other strong, hard or dense hardwoods as traditionally favoured for these.
So, what other woods are suitable for tool handles Note that I am more concerned with "long" tool handles. I hate to say it but it might best be summarised as: forget the species, what's this piece like? Wood is inherently a variable material, so one piece of hickory or ash, poplar, oak, willow, yew, walnut, birch, etc. And no single piece is quantified by a broad description of the species, no matter how accurate it is in general.
Another consideration: beyond the species, beyond the flexibility or the shock-absorbency of the wood chosen, grain orientation in the handle is perhaps of equal or greater significance. The most obvious aspect of this is the grain should be aligned with the axis of force when the tool is in use it should run front-to-back in the eye of the tool head but as well as this for a long haft grain run-out should be minimal or absent.
Summarised in this diagram from a US Forest Service handbook:. An extensive guide to axes which includes a section on 'hanging' that you might find informative: An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual. The author is firmly in favour of hickory! Another consideration is the wood's effect on steel.A few weeks ago Steven at Skillcult posted a video on his axe handle oiling system and wrote :. This is the first of a series I hope to continue of super accessible bullet point videos called Minute Technique.
The idea is to deliver very useful information in two minutes or less. Of course being rather thorough most of the time, most subjects will be covered in more depth as well, but these will be quick start guides with enough information to get to work.
This system penetrates the handle deeply. It probably builds up especially a lot in the outer rind of the handle wood.
I think of it as replacing water that was once in the living tree. As long as you use a good drying oil, like linseed, it will cure to a tough plastic like substance, the same stuff oil paints are made of.
I use raw oil because it has a slower curing time allowing for deeper penetration before the oil on the surface seals off the pores. The other reason I use raw is because the product known as boiled linseed oil is not boiled linseed oil at all, but rather a compound containing solvents and toxic metals to the end of decreasing curing time.
There is concern among some that raw linseed will never cure enough and will remain sticky.
I can assure you of that. As far as I know, they are all cut with solvents and dry quickly. He writes a lot more in his post. If you want in-depth knowledge of a topic, Steven is an excellent source.
I also used linseed oil to finish the mahogany handles on my beloved Planet Whizbang Wheel Hoe. The picture above shows the three ingredients needed to make Classic Clothespin Wax.
They are boiled linseed oil, pure gum spirits of turpentine, and beeswax. The three ingredients are combined in approximately equal parts. I really wanted to make this hoe-handle rub and use it on my tools. I had the wax, the turpentine and the linseed oil… and then I moved before mixing it up for a trial.
It was rusty and the handle was dry, rough, and dirty, but at least the head was still firmly attached. I sanded off all the original varnish, grim, and filth and got it to smooth bare wood. Now I started applying the coconut oil. I did this project in my shop in August when it was F. My coconut oil was very viscous. I applied it with just my fingers. I wiped on a coat and left the oil sitting on the wood, not wiping it away, this was about 7pm. I came back in the morning and found the handle dry, so I repeated the process again.
This happened for about 2 days or 5 coats 12 hours apart.
After 3 days the oil took about 24 hours to soak in completely and dry out. The hickory handle was now a beautiful color and it was silky smooth on my hand.
The wood really drinks it in, though, so I never had a problem with my tools being oily. I had to re-oil every few months, though, as the wood seems to be thirsty again at around that time. I have no idea where the oil goes. It just vanishes. The bare wood provides a good grip.Every niche and hobby has its trends.
Over a decade ago it was virtually unheard of. If they even sold at all. Now that the hobby has grown and evolved there have been countless trends that have come and went. While others still hold strong.
These have become such a large trend that Black Raven axes can sell for hundreds of dollars. Even in poor condition. With certain patterns even more valuable. Are they worth the big price tag? From a historical perspective, yes. These axes are old, rare and a wonderful piece of history. With the majority being very well worn. But if you simply need an axe to use then the answer is no. Quality axes in better condition can be found for considerably cheaper. Shortly after that other manufacturers followed the trend.
After decades of marketing and celebrity endorsement, they can now charge a premium for their axes. Are they worth the wait and the high prices? In my opinion, Hults Bruk has now reached the same quality, at a better price point and are available everywhere.
A better way to look at it is is it worth paying extra to support one of the two remaining Swedish forges. Handles that are completely scorched black were big a few years ago.
The blackening does protect the handle from UV damage. As well as stopping mold and mildew growth.
It also makes low quality handles look a little better. Personally, I liked this trend. Scorching handles is still quite popular.
It helps make plain handles a little more interesting without using stains or dyes. It works best on ring porous woods like Ash. This is one trend that remains popular because of its simplicity.
Swedish axes became popular largely due to marketing by Gransfors Bruks, the rise of the bushcraft community and Ray Mears. Is Swedish steel the best there is? Just to name a few. Now the second wave of Finnish collared axes has reignited the trend. They used to be sold relatively cheap and are beautiful, functional pieces of history.The same method works for making a handle for an adze, pickaxe, pulaski, or any tool where the head slides up the new handle and jams up on the large end of the handle.
Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. Don't forget firewood! Check out your woodpile, I bet there's some good hardwood out there that's well seasoned already. Green wood is okay for a pick handle also. Green wood is actually a lot faster to work with hand tools. It will shrink a bit, but that's not a problem, the big blob on the end will keep the head from flying off. Try your park department or trees blown down in a storm.
Orchards prune a tremendous amount of wood from their trees. They all have to pay people to get rid of their wood. Hickory and its relatives are the strongest woods that grow in the U. Ash is almost as strong and I happen to have some. Don't use softwood, it just won't last, and you'll get to make another handle. On second thought, go ahead! If you're in the south or in Mexico, hard yellow pine is plenty strong although it's officially a softwood.
That's why they use it to make ladders and floorboards. Casuarina, called "pine" in the Marshall Islands is great for tool handles. Shape it green and wet, it's very easy to work. Then throw it in salt water until it sinks. It'll turn very hard and a pretty red-orange color. The New Zealand Maori call it "Toa" or "warrior" because they make their fighting staves from it.
Here are some tool handles I made on Majuro Atoll. The axe handle and maul handles are ironwood. I didn't make the small adze handle, but both adzes are cutoff pick axes. The rightmost maul head is breadfruit wood, lightweight so the neighborhood kids could help me split logs.
The last photo is my pile of ironwood splitting wedges. Some of the wedges fell in the lagoon and when I found them again they'd turned into super-tough orange miracle material. I didn't happen to have any hardwood branches or boards thick enough for a this pick handle, so I glued two free ash boards together with yellow glue.
I used all my clamps as always. If you don't have clamps or run out of them, homemade clampstemporary nails and screws, innertubes, sandbags, innertube lashings etc. This handle didn't stay glued very well after I left it out in the rain. So I used epoxy for the next one. I got the epoxy for free from a construction company who were getting rid of extra liquids due to flammable liquid storage rules.
Don't buy anything! Every person and company in the "developed world" has too much stuff they need to get rid of.